Another morning of big (by my standards) powerful surf. Good to be back at my home break. Lots of surfers out, but after the day before in NH, I felt okay about getting out there. I stayed in the whitewater and got 3 or 4 good waves- I lost track. It was a good day- a lot of the surfers on the outside were hooting. I cheered on a beginner myself, and even chatted with a few surfers on the beach after my session. I really felt like a surfer!
Time surfed: 43 min
total time to date: 6 hours 8 min
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