Surf Sesh 8.21

 Back in the water after a few weeks off without wheels!  

Everytime I'm set up for a nice green wave, something happens.  This time a kid swam right in my way.  I ended up taking the wave on my belly- was able to turn right and set my rail, so a success none the less!

Did a few practice turtle rolls- it's time to really work on getting to the outside.

Last wave was nice- caught the broken wave, but turned right a bit and did some footwork.  Feel like I'm getting a sense of the rail.

Goals:

-practice turtle rolls

-practice green wave takeoffs

-practice turns and setting rail

Surf Sesh August 2

 Had a good strong paddle out, and seem to be getting a better feel for the green waves. 

I almost had the wave of the day, caught it and was about to pop up and take the drop when I saw a swimmer in my line, so I pulled back.  

Did some work on the inside- the waves were too shallow to ride, but got some nice setups on the reforms.

I had been going pretty hard all week, so my arms got tired and I could feel myself losing good paddling form, so I called it early.  

Surf Sesh August 1

 I was distracted by swimmers who kept getting close/in front of me, like curious dolphins.  Waves felt fast.  Had a few okay take-offs. 

Surf Sesh July 31

 It was like the wild west!  Big and choppy, short period , lost of side current.  Lots of students out.  I did get a nice little backhand turn.

A year ago I wouldn't have gone out in these conditions, so my strength and stamina, mentally and physically have improved!

Surf Sesh July 29

 It was a big messy day, couldn't make it out the back.  Spent my time in the whitewater, worked on neatening up my pop-ups.  Did a good job looking up, and started working on foot placement for turns.

Surf Sesh July 28 Not quite dawn patrol

 Such a perfect morning.  The waves were small- just the right size to practice catching green waves- and so clean.  It was a perfect glassy morning, and nobody but me and a few paddleboarders were out.  The waves snobs don't know what they are missing.  Had a good session practicing my green waves. 

Two waves really stood out.  On one, I had perfect positioning with the wave to catch it...but once I got to my feet my stance was all wrong.  

Another one though, everything felt like it went right. I was in good position for the wave, my stance felt good, I watched were I was going.  It also felt like maybe my pop-up is getting faster?

Things to work on:  wave selection and positioning, looking up.

Surf Sesh July 27

 I've not been keeping up with my blogging, but I am keeping up with the surfing!  I've stopped counting my times so much.  I feel that I have moved from Beginner beginner to Intermediate Beginner/progressor, so I think I've put my hours in!  I'm starting to work on green waves, now that I feel very confident in the white water.

July 27- Had a wave that felt epic!  In reality it was about 2 foot, but I picked it up and took the drop.  Felt like a huge drop going 100 miles and hour! What a feeling.  I am working on getting used to the feeling of dropping into the wave.  At first it feels like a bad thing, but if I hold on it's amazing!

Catching the wave is still hit or miss.  The theory of wave selection, timing and positioning is easier that the reality of it.  It's going to take practice.  Waves are dynamic, so each one is different.  it takes a long time to build the reflexes and memory to properly approach each wave, so each wave caught feels like such a victory!

I got another, smaller wave, didn't feel that huge drop, but DID angle a little and get a bit of a ride down the line!

 Things to work on:  Look up and where I want to go. Make sure I'm not using knees on the pop-up.

 

Surf Sesh November 5, 2023

 I'm behind!  

Had a good paddle to the back, tried some green waves without success.

But, on the inside did catch a green one!

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 17 hours 15 min

Surf Sesh October 27

 The sessions are getting fewer and farther between....

it was a small clean day.  Spent 11 min out back, tried for some green.  

Got one backhand turn in the whitewater. Need to work more on looking up and finishing clean!

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 16 hour 52min

Surf Sesh October 21, 2023

 Another messy but fun session.

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 16 hours 28 min

Surf Sesh October 20, 2023

 Quick messy session!

time surfed: 8 min

total time to date: 16 hours 5 min

Surf Sesh October 10, 2023

 Waves were messy and disorganized today, and the seaweed was a literal drag!  First time out wearing booties- it's makes me a little less nimble and quick to move my feet.  Nothing special, but not bad.

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date
: 15 hours 57 min

Surf Sesh October 6, 2023

 Had a really good night! Rides felt longer and smoother. Caught a green wave!  Didn't do much on turning practice, but did play around with shifting weight rail to rail.

Time surfed: 27 min

total time to date: 15 hours 34 min

Surf Sesh October 5, 2023

 Odd foggy night with disorganized waves. The seaweed was worse than the fog though, had some slippery moments.

This one was an okay ending:

Last wave of the day was great though- finished with perfect control and rode prone to the beach!

Time surfed: 21 min

Total time to date: 15 hours 7 min

Surf Sesh October 4, 2023

 Felt really strong and balanced! Started practicing left turns- it will take practice, but I know I can do it.  Straight waves felt good!  

Got a video- actually caught a green reform and went a little down the line- then fell off with my turn. 

Surfline has started listing wave energy.  49kj felt nice!

Time surfed: 25 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 46 min  

Surf Sesh October 3, 2023

 Short and sweet!

The waves were big and fast, but I was able to paddle out to the back.  Got one good whitewave.  Played around a little with foot placement on a few others with mixed results!

Time surfed: 11 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 21 min

Surf Sesh October 1, 2023

 WHAT A DAY!

Long Sands was big and crowded, so went to Harbor which is not traditionally a surf spot.  There was a shortboarder out, so I figured why not.

I was able to paddle out the back quite easily.  Watched a few waves go by...as they broke inside me I could see from the back how big they were. When my wave came, I decided to go for it.  I paddled into it and that thing was HUGE! Took the drop prone, then flew down the line, also prone.  It felt so big and so fast, but I stayed on and rode it! Even if I didn't stand, staying on was such an accomplishment.

After that exciting, scary, and exhilarating ride, I stayed on the inside.  Got one good whitewater wave, but the waves were breaking pretty shallow and it seems not the safest thing to be riding in the shorebreak, so called it a day.

Checked Surfline after- that wave had to have been 6 foot- twice my normal range! I also was able to see some of my rides on the hotel cam.  My paddle out was good.  I really zipped out there.  MY big wave wasn't really on camera, but my little one was.  I did not look as awkward as I thought I would.

All in all, a great day for confidence!

Time surfed: 16 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 10 min

Surf Sesh September 30, 2023

 Got 3 good white water waves, ended really nicely.

Took the drop on a green wave, wiped out, but could tell that I would have made it if I had weighted my front foot more.

time surfed: 33 min

total time to date: 13 hours 54 min

Surf Sesh September 26, 2023

 A messy day of waves, but had good foot placement and control ending my ride!

Time surfed : 20 min

Total time to date: 13 hours 21 min

Surf Sesh September 23

 Waves were tiny, weak and fizzling out.  Got one good wave with good control, one ok, then there was nothing left to ride!

Time surfed: 19 min

Total time to date: 13 hours 1 min