Had a rare mid-day session and it was hot! The water was warm and there was tons of seaweed.
I caught a few good whitewater waves with good controlled endings.
I caught a green wave- once I caught it it felt big and I got scared taking the drop so I didn't make it to my feet. But, I went for another one, not as big, and made it to my feet!
Okay session- not terribly refreshing with the warm water, hot sun, and seaweed everywhere!
Time surfed: 29 min (waves started closing out too close to shore, and there were a bunch of kids in the shorebreak)
total time to date: 10 hours
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