Surf Sesh 8.21

 Back in the water after a few weeks off without wheels!  

Everytime I'm set up for a nice green wave, something happens.  This time a kid swam right in my way.  I ended up taking the wave on my belly- was able to turn right and set my rail, so a success none the less!

Did a few practice turtle rolls- it's time to really work on getting to the outside.

Last wave was nice- caught the broken wave, but turned right a bit and did some footwork.  Feel like I'm getting a sense of the rail.

Goals:

-practice turtle rolls

-practice green wave takeoffs

-practice turns and setting rail

Surf Sesh August 2

 Had a good strong paddle out, and seem to be getting a better feel for the green waves. 

I almost had the wave of the day, caught it and was about to pop up and take the drop when I saw a swimmer in my line, so I pulled back.  

Did some work on the inside- the waves were too shallow to ride, but got some nice setups on the reforms.

I had been going pretty hard all week, so my arms got tired and I could feel myself losing good paddling form, so I called it early.  

Surf Sesh August 1

 I was distracted by swimmers who kept getting close/in front of me, like curious dolphins.  Waves felt fast.  Had a few okay take-offs. 

Surf Sesh July 31

 It was like the wild west!  Big and choppy, short period , lost of side current.  Lots of students out.  I did get a nice little backhand turn.

A year ago I wouldn't have gone out in these conditions, so my strength and stamina, mentally and physically have improved!

Surf Sesh July 29

 It was a big messy day, couldn't make it out the back.  Spent my time in the whitewater, worked on neatening up my pop-ups.  Did a good job looking up, and started working on foot placement for turns.