Tuesday, August 13, 2024

Surf Sesh August 2

 Had a good strong paddle out, and seem to be getting a better feel for the green waves. 


I almost had the wave of the day, caught it and was about to pop up and take the drop when I saw a swimmer in my line, so I pulled back.  


Did some work on the inside- the waves were too shallow to ride, but got some nice setups on the reforms.


I had been going pretty hard all week, so my arms got tired and I could feel myself losing good paddling form, so I called it early.  

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