Remembered my ear plugs today! Had a really nice session. Waves were manageable for me to get out the back. Tried some green waves.
Back in the whitewater had 3 really smooth rides that ended with perfect control! Caught a bunch more with less style. I was good about keeping my eyes up. Really pleased with myself!
Time surfed: 39 min
Total time to date: 12 hours 42 min
Felt big and messy, so stayed on the inside. Got a couple of really smooth rides! Would have stayed out longer, but it was windy and my ears got cold! Should have worn my ear plugs.
Time surfed: 24 min
total time to date: 12 hours 3 min
Missed a few days- hurricane swell was too much for me. Had a nice session Monday- felt good to be back after more than a week! The surf was messy and still big, so stayed in the whitewater. Had some good pop-ups. Need to remind myself to look up and not at my feet!
Time surfed: 51 min
total time to date: 11 hours 41 min
Had a few days off due to a broken car. Then the hurricane swell was too much for me!
Time surfed: 7 min
Total time to date: 10 hours 50 min
Had a nice session. Waves were small and glassy, got some good green wave practice- definitely not perfect!
Time surfed: 43 min
Total time to date: 10 hours 43 min
Had a rare mid-day session and it was hot! The water was warm and there was tons of seaweed.
I caught a few good whitewater waves with good controlled endings.
I caught a green wave- once I caught it it felt big and I got scared taking the drop so I didn't make it to my feet. But, I went for another one, not as big, and made it to my feet!
Okay session- not terribly refreshing with the warm water, hot sun, and seaweed everywhere!
Time surfed: 29 min (waves started closing out too close to shore, and there were a bunch of kids in the shorebreak)
total time to date: 10 hours
Session cut short when a big, dead fish got caught in my fins! I appreciate that things live in the ocean, and therefore die in the ocean, but a dead fish that close to shore felt like bad vibes.
Time surfed: 10 min
Total time to date: 9 hours 31 min
Another good day of hurricane swell! Waves were big, so I stayed in the whitewater on the inside.
At first I was having a hard time letting go of the work day, but the water did it's magic and I had a good session!
I've noticed my popups are getting....poppier? Faster and smoother anyway. Had some good finishes.
Time surfed: 44 min
total time to date: 9 hours 21 min
The waves were rough and fast- hurricane swell is real! But, I maintained good control of my board!
Time surfed: 24 min
total time to date: 8 hours 37 min
Had a fantastic morning session! The waves were great and the water was warm. Caught a green wave and rode it! Had some good white water waves, finishing with control. When I decided on one last wave- what a wave it was! Caught a green wave, rode it, and finished with control. YEEEW!
Time surfed: 50 min
Total time to date: 8 hours 13 min
It was a good month! I feel like I did do what I set out to.
Between August 9 and August 31 I got out 12 times. Not too bad. I did increase my time out in the water. August 10 my session was 28 minutes. August 27 it was 43!
I feel my paddling and turning have improved.
I've caught a few green waves-just didn't stay on them ;)
I am consistently catching and riding whitewater.
I have maintained my on land healthy lifestyle, and I 100% stayed stoked!
September goals:
-get in the water EVERY day.
-work on controlled finishes to my whitewater waves.
-paddle out back on small days...it is hurricane season, after all!
Such a good night! The Franklin swell was big, powerful, and so well formed. It felt more manageable, but I still stayed on the inside. I got a bunch of whitewater waves- I was too focused to maintain a steady count. A few good finshes; a few not so much. But, it was my first time really surfing hurricane swell! SO fun!
Time surfed: 40 min
total time to date: 7 hours 4 min
This was the first day we really got hurricane swell. it was big and powerful- so I stayed on the inside. I caught one wave and got sandbanked, so I decided to call it a day. Discretion is the better side of valor!
Time surfed: 16 min
Total time to date: 6 hours 24 min
