Surf Sesh November 5, 2023

 I'm behind!  

Had a good paddle to the back, tried some green waves without success.

But, on the inside did catch a green one!

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 17 hours 15 min

Surf Sesh October 27

 The sessions are getting fewer and farther between....

it was a small clean day.  Spent 11 min out back, tried for some green.  

Got one backhand turn in the whitewater. Need to work more on looking up and finishing clean!

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 16 hour 52min

Surf Sesh October 21, 2023

 Another messy but fun session.

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 16 hours 28 min

Surf Sesh October 20, 2023

 Quick messy session!

time surfed: 8 min

total time to date: 16 hours 5 min

Surf Sesh October 10, 2023

 Waves were messy and disorganized today, and the seaweed was a literal drag!  First time out wearing booties- it's makes me a little less nimble and quick to move my feet.  Nothing special, but not bad.

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date
: 15 hours 57 min

Surf Sesh October 6, 2023

 Had a really good night! Rides felt longer and smoother. Caught a green wave!  Didn't do much on turning practice, but did play around with shifting weight rail to rail.

Time surfed: 27 min

total time to date: 15 hours 34 min

Surf Sesh October 5, 2023

 Odd foggy night with disorganized waves. The seaweed was worse than the fog though, had some slippery moments.

This one was an okay ending:

Last wave of the day was great though- finished with perfect control and rode prone to the beach!

Time surfed: 21 min

Total time to date: 15 hours 7 min

Surf Sesh October 4, 2023

 Felt really strong and balanced! Started practicing left turns- it will take practice, but I know I can do it.  Straight waves felt good!  

Got a video- actually caught a green reform and went a little down the line- then fell off with my turn. 

Surfline has started listing wave energy.  49kj felt nice!

Time surfed: 25 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 46 min  

Surf Sesh October 3, 2023

 Short and sweet!

The waves were big and fast, but I was able to paddle out to the back.  Got one good whitewave.  Played around a little with foot placement on a few others with mixed results!

Time surfed: 11 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 21 min

Surf Sesh October 1, 2023

 WHAT A DAY!

Long Sands was big and crowded, so went to Harbor which is not traditionally a surf spot.  There was a shortboarder out, so I figured why not.

I was able to paddle out the back quite easily.  Watched a few waves go by...as they broke inside me I could see from the back how big they were. When my wave came, I decided to go for it.  I paddled into it and that thing was HUGE! Took the drop prone, then flew down the line, also prone.  It felt so big and so fast, but I stayed on and rode it! Even if I didn't stand, staying on was such an accomplishment.

After that exciting, scary, and exhilarating ride, I stayed on the inside.  Got one good whitewater wave, but the waves were breaking pretty shallow and it seems not the safest thing to be riding in the shorebreak, so called it a day.

Checked Surfline after- that wave had to have been 6 foot- twice my normal range! I also was able to see some of my rides on the hotel cam.  My paddle out was good.  I really zipped out there.  MY big wave wasn't really on camera, but my little one was.  I did not look as awkward as I thought I would.

All in all, a great day for confidence!

Time surfed: 16 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 10 min

September Wrap up and October Goals

 Did not get out every day- broken car, hurricane swell, high winds and upset tum all kept me on land.  Got out a total of 14 times.  Not terrible.

The good news- I'm doing much better at my finishes on whitewater waves- and my paddling is strong.

October Goals:

-get out as often as I can.  This is pretty much my last month of post work surf until spring.  Darn those early sunsets.

-continue my control on whitewater.  Maybe time to start practicing turns?

-On smaller days work on green waves and getting used to the feeling of the drop!

-Yoga every morning!

Surf Sesh September 30, 2023

 Got 3 good white water waves, ended really nicely.

Took the drop on a green wave, wiped out, but could tell that I would have made it if I had weighted my front foot more.

time surfed: 33 min

total time to date: 13 hours 54 min

Surf Sesh September 26, 2023

 A messy day of waves, but had good foot placement and control ending my ride!

Time surfed : 20 min

Total time to date: 13 hours 21 min

Surf Sesh September 23

 Waves were tiny, weak and fizzling out.  Got one good wave with good control, one ok, then there was nothing left to ride!

Time surfed: 19 min

Total time to date: 13 hours 1 min

 

Surf Sesh September 20,2023

 Remembered my ear plugs today!  Had a really nice session.  Waves were manageable for me to get out the back.  Tried some green waves.

Back in the whitewater had 3 really smooth rides that ended with perfect control! Caught a bunch more with less style.   I was good about keeping my eyes up.  Really pleased with myself!

Time surfed: 39 min

Total time to date: 12 hours 42 min

Surf Session September 19, 2023

 Felt big and messy, so stayed on the inside.  Got a couple of really smooth rides!  Would have stayed out longer, but it was windy and my ears got cold!  Should have worn my ear plugs.

Time surfed: 24 min

total time to date: 12 hours 3 min

Surf Sesh, September 18, 2023

 Missed a few days- hurricane swell was too much for me.  Had a nice session Monday- felt good to be back after more than a week! The surf was messy and still big, so stayed in the whitewater.  Had some good pop-ups.  Need to remind myself to look up and not at my feet!

Time surfed: 51 min

total time to date: 11 hours 41 min

Surf Sesh September 14, 2023

 Had a few days off due to a broken car.  Then the hurricane swell was too much for me!  

Time surfed: 7 min

Total time to date: 10 hours 50 min

Surf Sesh September 9, 2023

 Had a nice session.  Waves were small and glassy, got some good green wave practice- definitely not perfect!

Time surfed: 43 min

Total time to date: 10 hours 43 min

Surf Sesh September 7, 2023

 Had a rare mid-day session and it was hot!  The water was warm and there was tons of seaweed.  

I caught a few good whitewater waves with good controlled endings.  

I caught a green wave- once I caught it it felt big and I got scared taking the drop so I didn't make it to my feet.  But, I went for another one, not as big, and made it to my feet!

Okay session- not terribly refreshing with the warm water, hot sun, and seaweed everywhere!

Time surfed: 29 min (waves started closing out too close to shore, and there were a bunch of kids in the shorebreak)

total time to date: 10 hours

Surf Sesh September 6, 2023

 Session cut short when a big, dead fish got caught in my fins!  I appreciate that things live in the ocean, and therefore die in the ocean, but a dead fish that close to shore felt like bad vibes.

Time surfed: 10 min

Total time to date:  9 hours 31 min

Surf Sesh September 5, 2023

 Another good day of hurricane swell!  Waves were big, so I stayed in the whitewater on the inside. 

At first I was having a hard time letting go of the work day, but the water did it's magic and I had a good session!

I've noticed my popups are getting....poppier?  Faster and smoother anyway.  Had some good finishes.  

Time surfed: 44 min

total time to date: 9 hours 21 min

Surf Sesh September 4, 2023

 The waves were rough and fast- hurricane swell is real!  But, I maintained good control of my board!

Time surfed: 24 min

total time to date: 8 hours 37 min

Surf Sesh September 2. 2023

 Had a fantastic morning session!  The waves were great and the water was warm.  Caught a green wave and rode it!  Had some good white water waves, finishing with control.  When I decided on one last wave- what a wave it was! Caught a green wave, rode it, and finished with control. YEEEW!

Time surfed: 50 min

Total time to date: 8 hours 13 min

Surf Sesh September 1, 2023

It was big and messy hurricane leftovers....my ears got cold so cut the session short.

Time surfed: 19 min

Total time to date: 7 hours 23 min

August Wrap-up and September goals

 It was a good month!  I feel like I did do what I set out to.  

Between August 9 and August 31 I got out 12 times.  Not too bad.  I did increase my time out in the water. August 10 my session was 28 minutes.  August 27 it was 43!  

I feel my paddling and turning have improved.

I've caught a few green waves-just didn't stay on them ;)

I am consistently catching and riding whitewater.

I have maintained my on land healthy lifestyle, and I 100% stayed stoked! 

September goals:

-get in the water EVERY day.

-work on controlled finishes to my whitewater waves.

-paddle out back on small days...it is hurricane season, after all!

Surf Sesh August 31, 2023

 Such a good night!  The Franklin swell was big, powerful, and so well formed.  It felt more manageable, but I still stayed on the inside. I got a bunch of whitewater waves- I was too focused to maintain a steady count.  A few good finshes; a few not so much.  But, it was my first time really surfing hurricane swell! SO fun!

Time surfed: 40 min

total time to date: 7 hours 4 min

Surf Sesh August 30, 2023

 This was the first day we really got hurricane swell.  it was big and powerful- so I stayed on the inside.  I caught one wave and got sandbanked, so I decided to call it a day.  Discretion is the better side of valor!

Time surfed: 16 min

Total time to date: 6 hours 24 min

Surf Sesh August 27, 2023

 Another morning of big (by my standards) powerful surf.  Good to be back at my home break.  Lots of surfers out, but after the day before in NH, I felt okay about getting out there.  I stayed in the whitewater and got 3 or 4 good waves- I lost track.  It was a good day- a lot of the surfers on the outside were hooting.  I cheered on a beginner myself, and even chatted with a few surfers on the beach after my session.  I really felt like a surfer!

Time surfed: 43 min

total time to date: 6 hours 8 min

Surf Sesh August 26, 2023

 Saturday morning went to a meetup of More Women+ Surf and Lavender Lineup.  It was really cool surfing with other folx of all abilities.  Went to a new beach for it.  The waves were big and powerful, and it was CROWDED!  I felt more nervous about the crowds than the waves!

I got a lesson in turtle rolling, and paddled out to the back.  There were way to many people out there though, so I went back to the whitewater. Took a break.

When I went back for session 2, caught and rode two whitewater waves, and had controlled finishes on both!

I got brave and went out the back.  Paddled for a big wave- and wiped out spectacularly.  But, sometimes that's a good learning experience.  

Overall, it was a good experience- but I didn't love the break.  Parking was a nightmare- but I did learn that I can carry my board at least half a mile down the road!  It was crowded, and the vibe was not as mellow as at my home break.  When the tide went out, some big boulders started to get uncovered- got a bit of a scrape from one of them- my first case of "reef rash" on my toe.  it was awesome though to be with a group of cool surfers though!

I did not set my timer- but I'm gonna call it 1 hour 15 min.  I was beat by the end of the day!

Time surfered: 1 hour 15 min

Total time to date: 5 hours 25 min

Surf Sesh August 24, 2023

 Had an AMAZING session!  The waves were still small and choppy, but had more power to them.  I for real caught a green wave, but my foot placement was wonky, and, TBH, I got a little scared by the feeling of dropping in.  

But- the white waves were great, and also gave me some opportunity to feel the drop and get more comfortable with it. Had two legit, real, long wave rides in the whitewater. On the second one I even was able to do a little right turn-on my backhand!  I feel like I really turned a corner last night- I feel I'm making significant progress!

Next step- work on more controlled finishes- my first wave was okay, but the second one with the turn ended, ahem, kookily.

time surfed: 40 min

total time to date: 4 hours 9 min

Surf Sesh August 23, 2023

 The waves were still small with choppy conditions, but less mushy.  My paddling and board control felt really strong.

Working on my front foot position when standing up.  At the end of the session I felt pretty dialed in! AS silly as it sounds in tiny little waves, I did feel like I had better commitment to the waves.    

It's sometimes hard to maintain a wave count while out there- the focus is on mindfulness, not numbers, but I think I did 3 or 4 good ones!

Times surfed: 39 min

total time to date: 3 hours 29 min

Surf Sesh August 22, 2023

 The waves were tiny, choppy, and mushy.  Stood up on 2 green waves, but was behind the wave so went nowhere!

Got a few "sort of waves," and one decent whitewater wave.  Had one really clean pop-up but was off balance so.....WIPEOUT!

I found myself being a bit cautious in the shallow whitewater, didn't want to fall is the shallows.  The lack of propulsion from the weak waves made it harder to stay up and riding.

Time surfed: 34 min

Total time to date: 2 hours 52 min

Surf Sesh August 21, 2023

 For various reasons I was out of the water for a whole week! It felt good to be back. The waves were tiny but clean.  I stood on 2 green waves- but was behind the wave so got nowhere! I got up on 3 white water.  I need to work more on angling my front foot the right way.  I'm bringing it up and landing it pointing right at the nose!

Time surfed: 32 min

Total time to date: 2 hours 16 min

Sharing Stoke

 I had a great time in the water last Thursday, and I didn't even surf!  I spent some time volunteering with Equip for Living's Equip for Surfing event- providing adaptive surfing experiences.  

I was paired up with a surf instructor from the local shop, and we worked with participants who did not have mobility limitations.  It was such a great time helping people have fun in the ocean.  There is so much to be said for adaptive and therapeutic surfing- it can create new neural paths that can help with depression, anxiety, PTSD and addiction.  It's great exercise, but also an exercise in mindfulness. It releases endorphins and creates a sense of accomplishment. It exposes one to the beauty, joy, and benefits of the ocean, and it's just darn fun! 

I am looking for all the opportunities I can find to volunteer for programs like this, it was such a great time, and everyone had fun!

Surf Sesh August 14, 2023

 I was so excited to get out in the water Monday night that I forget to set my timer until I had been out the back for a while.

The waves were teeny tiny and weak.  I caught two green waves and even stood for a moment!  Caught two good whitewater waves.

Time surfed: 30 minutes

Total time to date: 1 hour 44 min

Surf Sesh August 12, 2023

Beautiful dawn patrol session. Waves were small, hardly any one was out. A little sore where I got banged up, but still a successful session. Caught one green wave. Didn't stand up all the way, but rode it drop knee. It's gonna take some time to get used to the drop.

Got three good white water waves! My back foot is doing a wonky thing during the stand up, leaning sideways. Need to work on getting that back foot square under myself. All in all though, a day of stoke!

Time surfed: 28 min

Surf time to date: 1 hour 14 min

Surf Sesh August 11, 3023

Waves were small. Did a bunch of paddling practice. Caught one little white water wave.  Was attempting a green wave and had a unique wipeout. I came down on my rail right under my left boob, driving it in my ribcage. For a minute there I thought I may have cracked a rib, and it reeeally hurt so I cut my session early. All is well though.  Ibuprofen and ice and it feels much better, not even a bruise!

Time surfed: 18 min

Total Surf time to date: 46 min

Surf Sesh August 10, 2023

 I had every intention of logging conditions, swell direction, etc...but all I will say is:

I fully caught and rode a whitewater wave!  Totally stoked!

Time: 28 min

August Goals

-get out in the water as often as I can,  weather and tourists permitting.

-stay out a little longer each time 

-in the water:

  -paddle out the back

  -strengthen padding technique and turning 

  -work on catching green waves, try popping up but don't stress about it

  -practice pop ups on whitewater: fast to feet but slow to rise. Look up, not at my feet!

-on land:

  - AM exercises: pop ups, balance board, paddle cords

  -Exercise videos on non Surf evenings after work

  -but don't overtrain 

  -keep making healthy nutrition choices to support my surfing

  -bed time breathing/meditation/relaxation 

Most of all...

Stay Stoked!

Do You even Surf?

 My surfing journey for the past 9 years has been in fits and stops.  Things have changed though.  

I live at the beach now!  For the past year, I've been a fairly steady and competent bodyboarder.  Last fall I got a 7'6" Mick Fanning softtop.  I ditched the crappy old amazon board.  I struggled on the MF and didn't really get any wave time to speak of.  I hibernated all winter, pulled out the bodyboards in March, and tried the Mick again in June.  It was a STRUGGLE!

I finally decided to go back to square one, and start all over again.  I got a 9' Catch Surf Odysea log.  It's got tons of volume!  For that past month I've been getting out most days.  at first, my stamina was such that I could only do a few minutes at a time, but each session is a little longer.  I'm focusing on going slow, and really becoming a surfer.  My paddling is stronger, and I feel more confident on the board and in the ocean. I even feel less shy about being out around other surfers.  I feel like I'm doing pretty okay at reading the waves- the year of bodyboarding really helped.  Right now, I  feel like I can catch a wave, or stand up, but not both at the same time.  Total kook problem!

I plan to start blogging my surf sessions and tracking my goals so I can see myself progress.  I don't want to get too obsessed about it though, and make it more about the blog than what the blg is about.  In theory, it should take about 30 hours in the water to go from "Beginner Beginner" to "beginner."  I will spot myself a few hours and for tracking purposes start at 0:00 today!