Surf Sesh November 5, 2023

 I'm behind!  

Had a good paddle to the back, tried some green waves without success.

But, on the inside did catch a green one!

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 17 hours 15 min

Surf Sesh October 27

 The sessions are getting fewer and farther between....

it was a small clean day.  Spent 11 min out back, tried for some green.  

Got one backhand turn in the whitewater. Need to work more on looking up and finishing clean!

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 16 hour 52min

Surf Sesh October 21, 2023

 Another messy but fun session.

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date: 16 hours 28 min

Surf Sesh October 20, 2023

 Quick messy session!

time surfed: 8 min

total time to date: 16 hours 5 min

Surf Sesh October 10, 2023

 Waves were messy and disorganized today, and the seaweed was a literal drag!  First time out wearing booties- it's makes me a little less nimble and quick to move my feet.  Nothing special, but not bad.

Time surfed: 23 min

Total time to date
: 15 hours 57 min

Surf Sesh October 6, 2023

 Had a really good night! Rides felt longer and smoother. Caught a green wave!  Didn't do much on turning practice, but did play around with shifting weight rail to rail.

Time surfed: 27 min

total time to date: 15 hours 34 min

Surf Sesh October 5, 2023

 Odd foggy night with disorganized waves. The seaweed was worse than the fog though, had some slippery moments.

This one was an okay ending:

Last wave of the day was great though- finished with perfect control and rode prone to the beach!

Time surfed: 21 min

Total time to date: 15 hours 7 min

Surf Sesh October 4, 2023

 Felt really strong and balanced! Started practicing left turns- it will take practice, but I know I can do it.  Straight waves felt good!  

Got a video- actually caught a green reform and went a little down the line- then fell off with my turn. 

Surfline has started listing wave energy.  49kj felt nice!

Time surfed: 25 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 46 min  

Surf Sesh October 3, 2023

 Short and sweet!

The waves were big and fast, but I was able to paddle out to the back.  Got one good whitewave.  Played around a little with foot placement on a few others with mixed results!

Time surfed: 11 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 21 min

Surf Sesh October 1, 2023

 WHAT A DAY!

Long Sands was big and crowded, so went to Harbor which is not traditionally a surf spot.  There was a shortboarder out, so I figured why not.

I was able to paddle out the back quite easily.  Watched a few waves go by...as they broke inside me I could see from the back how big they were. When my wave came, I decided to go for it.  I paddled into it and that thing was HUGE! Took the drop prone, then flew down the line, also prone.  It felt so big and so fast, but I stayed on and rode it! Even if I didn't stand, staying on was such an accomplishment.

After that exciting, scary, and exhilarating ride, I stayed on the inside.  Got one good whitewater wave, but the waves were breaking pretty shallow and it seems not the safest thing to be riding in the shorebreak, so called it a day.

Checked Surfline after- that wave had to have been 6 foot- twice my normal range! I also was able to see some of my rides on the hotel cam.  My paddle out was good.  I really zipped out there.  MY big wave wasn't really on camera, but my little one was.  I did not look as awkward as I thought I would.

All in all, a great day for confidence!

Time surfed: 16 min

Total time to date: 14 hours 10 min

Surf Sesh September 30, 2023

 Got 3 good white water waves, ended really nicely.

Took the drop on a green wave, wiped out, but could tell that I would have made it if I had weighted my front foot more.

time surfed: 33 min

total time to date: 13 hours 54 min

Surf Sesh September 26, 2023

 A messy day of waves, but had good foot placement and control ending my ride!

Time surfed : 20 min

Total time to date: 13 hours 21 min

Surf Sesh September 23

 Waves were tiny, weak and fizzling out.  Got one good wave with good control, one ok, then there was nothing left to ride!

Time surfed: 19 min

Total time to date: 13 hours 1 min

 

Surf Sesh September 20,2023

 Remembered my ear plugs today!  Had a really nice session.  Waves were manageable for me to get out the back.  Tried some green waves.

Back in the whitewater had 3 really smooth rides that ended with perfect control! Caught a bunch more with less style.   I was good about keeping my eyes up.  Really pleased with myself!

Time surfed: 39 min

Total time to date: 12 hours 42 min

Surf Session September 19, 2023

 Felt big and messy, so stayed on the inside.  Got a couple of really smooth rides!  Would have stayed out longer, but it was windy and my ears got cold!  Should have worn my ear plugs.

Time surfed: 24 min

total time to date: 12 hours 3 min

Surf Sesh, September 18, 2023

 Missed a few days- hurricane swell was too much for me.  Had a nice session Monday- felt good to be back after more than a week! The surf was messy and still big, so stayed in the whitewater.  Had some good pop-ups.  Need to remind myself to look up and not at my feet!

Time surfed: 51 min

total time to date: 11 hours 41 min

Surf Sesh September 14, 2023

 Had a few days off due to a broken car.  Then the hurricane swell was too much for me!  

Time surfed: 7 min

Total time to date: 10 hours 50 min

Surf Sesh September 9, 2023

 Had a nice session.  Waves were small and glassy, got some good green wave practice- definitely not perfect!

Time surfed: 43 min

Total time to date: 10 hours 43 min

Surf Sesh September 7, 2023

 Had a rare mid-day session and it was hot!  The water was warm and there was tons of seaweed.  

I caught a few good whitewater waves with good controlled endings.  

I caught a green wave- once I caught it it felt big and I got scared taking the drop so I didn't make it to my feet.  But, I went for another one, not as big, and made it to my feet!

Okay session- not terribly refreshing with the warm water, hot sun, and seaweed everywhere!

Time surfed: 29 min (waves started closing out too close to shore, and there were a bunch of kids in the shorebreak)

total time to date: 10 hours

Surf Sesh September 6, 2023

 Session cut short when a big, dead fish got caught in my fins!  I appreciate that things live in the ocean, and therefore die in the ocean, but a dead fish that close to shore felt like bad vibes.

Time surfed: 10 min

Total time to date:  9 hours 31 min