Missed a few days- hurricane swell was too much for me. Had a nice session Monday- felt good to be back after more than a week! The surf was messy and still big, so stayed in the whitewater. Had some good pop-ups. Need to remind myself to look up and not at my feet!
Time surfed: 51 min
total time to date: 11 hours 41 min
Had a few days off due to a broken car. Then the hurricane swell was too much for me!
Time surfed: 7 min
Total time to date: 10 hours 50 min
Had a nice session. Waves were small and glassy, got some good green wave practice- definitely not perfect!
Time surfed: 43 min
Total time to date: 10 hours 43 min
Had a rare mid-day session and it was hot! The water was warm and there was tons of seaweed.
I caught a few good whitewater waves with good controlled endings.
I caught a green wave- once I caught it it felt big and I got scared taking the drop so I didn't make it to my feet. But, I went for another one, not as big, and made it to my feet!
Okay session- not terribly refreshing with the warm water, hot sun, and seaweed everywhere!
Time surfed: 29 min (waves started closing out too close to shore, and there were a bunch of kids in the shorebreak)
total time to date: 10 hours
Session cut short when a big, dead fish got caught in my fins! I appreciate that things live in the ocean, and therefore die in the ocean, but a dead fish that close to shore felt like bad vibes.
Time surfed: 10 min
Total time to date: 9 hours 31 min
Another good day of hurricane swell! Waves were big, so I stayed in the whitewater on the inside.
At first I was having a hard time letting go of the work day, but the water did it's magic and I had a good session!
I've noticed my popups are getting....poppier? Faster and smoother anyway. Had some good finishes.
Time surfed: 44 min
total time to date: 9 hours 21 min
The waves were rough and fast- hurricane swell is real! But, I maintained good control of my board!
Time surfed: 24 min
total time to date: 8 hours 37 min
