The film Surfwise and the book Scratching the Horizon really deserve to be reviewed together. The film is a documentary about the Paskowitz family, a family of eight sons and one daughter, children of modern gypsy parents who raised their children on the road on a never ending surf safari. It sounds like a such a charming, romantic story- successful doctor goes back to the land (or ocean) to raise his children purely. It's an interesting story, and well worth the watch, but it does prove the old maxim about dysfunctional families. They did it with style! What bothered me though, was the underlying attitude of the parents- they repeatedly referred to the sons, and didn't and don't seem to value their daughter as much.
Scratching the Horizon: A Surfing Life is a memoir by Izzy, on of the sons. It felt like a really honest book. He did not shy from the darker moments on the road, but still imaprts that they were a family. He is unflinching in the struggles to move from surf gypsy grom to responsible adult. Seems like he got their though. He now runs an foundation that brings surfing to autistic children. At least one success story came out of that family!
Monday, February 20, 2017
How I Finally Nailed My Pop-up
I think the most frustrating thing about the fist surf lesson I took was attempting the pop-up. I was really discouraged.
I think the most empowering feeling was nailing my pop-up last summer and riding a wave into shore.
The hardest thing about learning the pop-up is that you can read about it, and be told about it, and watch it, but a lot of it is just getting it. I went into surfing last summer understanding the concept of it. I've read so many books and watched so many videos. The first thing that helped, of course, was increased upper body and core strength. The second was confidence. I told my self that if I could do crow pose in yoga, I could pop up.
My fist session I got some wobbly pop-ups, but didn't catch a full ride. I already knew, however, that I was doing so much better that two summers previous. What finally got me up and riding though, was my hand positioning. I had been setting my hands more like I was doing a plank, or a push-up, or crow. Once I moved my hands right under my chest, under my boobs really, I was flying.
Now that I've nailed the pop-up, this summer's goal is to get my wave timing down. I can't wait.
I think the most empowering feeling was nailing my pop-up last summer and riding a wave into shore.
The hardest thing about learning the pop-up is that you can read about it, and be told about it, and watch it, but a lot of it is just getting it. I went into surfing last summer understanding the concept of it. I've read so many books and watched so many videos. The first thing that helped, of course, was increased upper body and core strength. The second was confidence. I told my self that if I could do crow pose in yoga, I could pop up.
My fist session I got some wobbly pop-ups, but didn't catch a full ride. I already knew, however, that I was doing so much better that two summers previous. What finally got me up and riding though, was my hand positioning. I had been setting my hands more like I was doing a plank, or a push-up, or crow. Once I moved my hands right under my chest, under my boobs really, I was flying.
Now that I've nailed the pop-up, this summer's goal is to get my wave timing down. I can't wait.
How Surfing Has Changed Me
Surfing is transformative. It is so hard to describe to a non-surfer what is so magical about the experience of gliding over the water. I've found that I have changed since I began surfing, sometimes in ways I never expected.
- I am less anxious and more brave. Facing the power of the ocean, and standing up on water makes me feel as if I can do anything. I took my first airplane ride last fall and loved it. I think surfing helped.
- I am more invested in my workouts and fitness. Getting fit for surfing is both motivation and goal.
- I don't care about being skinny; I want to be strong.
- I am more patient. The experience of being in the line-up, waiting for a wave has taught me to relax a little when waiting for other things.
- I have become more passionate about protecting the environment, and especially the oceans.
- I've become very interested in the weather. Weather = Waves!
- I'm more relaxed about storms, since now I know that there may a swell as a reward.
- I've completely lost interest in fashion magazines.
- I don't care as much about fashion and makeup. Sure, I want to look put together for work, but it's not a huge priority anymore.
- I've become a very boring conversationalist. I can find a way to work surfing into just about any conversation!
Sunday, February 19, 2017
Wingnut's Complete Surfing
"Wingnut's Complete Surfing" by Scott Bannerot, Robert Weaver.
It's been said, and it's true. You cannot learn surfing from a book. You, however, learn about surfing from a book. This is the best of the many how to surf books I've read. I am a big fan of Wingnut anyway. He's a great freesurfer and an unabashed longboarder. Most books assume that the surfer's goal is to eventually to a shortboard, but this book really embraces the beauty and grace of the longboard. I feel like this book will help me to be a better longboarder.
The differences between a professionally written book like this one and an amateur self published one are evident. Well written, with a conversational tone, fun stories and informative photos, this book is highly recommended to any would be longboarder!
Start reading it for free: http://a.co/3xA5vIp
Friday, February 17, 2017
Book Review: Adult Beginner Guide: How to Surf
"Adult Beginner Guide | How To Surf" by Chris Anderson.
Some solid tips in this book, but not my first recommendation. There are better learn to surf books out there. It does have some good instruction on the pop up.
Start reading it for free: http://a.co/4aIIQdd
Book Review: Easy Surfing Fitness
"Easy Surfing Fitness: Become Fit, Lean and Strong in Just 30 Days" by Troy Adashun.
Basically the same book as Body Like a Surf Pro. BAIL!
Start reading it for free: http://a.co/i4l86ir
Book Review: Body like a Surf Pro
"Body Like a Surf Pro: Get Fit, Lose Fat and Catch More Waves Than Ever Before" by Troy Adashun.
Some of the concepts in this book are solid: eat clean, build core and upper body strength, focus on endurance and not bulk. However, some of the nutritional advice veers into junk science territory, and the advice doesn't really seem enough for a full book. BAIL on this one!
Start reading it for free: http://a.co/aU3z2tA
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)