Another good day of hurricane swell! Waves were big, so I stayed in the whitewater on the inside.
At first I was having a hard time letting go of the work day, but the water did it's magic and I had a good session!
I've noticed my popups are getting....poppier? Faster and smoother anyway. Had some good finishes.
Time surfed: 44 min
total time to date: 9 hours 21 min
The waves were rough and fast- hurricane swell is real! But, I maintained good control of my board!
Time surfed: 24 min
total time to date: 8 hours 37 min
Had a fantastic morning session! The waves were great and the water was warm. Caught a green wave and rode it! Had some good white water waves, finishing with control. When I decided on one last wave- what a wave it was! Caught a green wave, rode it, and finished with control. YEEEW!
Time surfed: 50 min
Total time to date: 8 hours 13 min
It was a good month! I feel like I did do what I set out to.
Between August 9 and August 31 I got out 12 times. Not too bad. I did increase my time out in the water. August 10 my session was 28 minutes. August 27 it was 43!
I feel my paddling and turning have improved.
I've caught a few green waves-just didn't stay on them ;)
I am consistently catching and riding whitewater.
I have maintained my on land healthy lifestyle, and I 100% stayed stoked!
September goals:
-get in the water EVERY day.
-work on controlled finishes to my whitewater waves.
-paddle out back on small days...it is hurricane season, after all!
Such a good night! The Franklin swell was big, powerful, and so well formed. It felt more manageable, but I still stayed on the inside. I got a bunch of whitewater waves- I was too focused to maintain a steady count. A few good finshes; a few not so much. But, it was my first time really surfing hurricane swell! SO fun!
Time surfed: 40 min
total time to date: 7 hours 4 min
This was the first day we really got hurricane swell. it was big and powerful- so I stayed on the inside. I caught one wave and got sandbanked, so I decided to call it a day. Discretion is the better side of valor!
Time surfed: 16 min
Total time to date: 6 hours 24 min
