I've not been keeping up with my blogging, but I am keeping up with the surfing! I've stopped counting my times so much. I feel that I have moved from Beginner beginner to Intermediate Beginner/progressor, so I think I've put my hours in! I'm starting to work on green waves, now that I feel very confident in the white water.
July 27- Had a wave that felt epic! In reality it was about 2 foot, but I picked it up and took the drop. Felt like a huge drop going 100 miles and hour! What a feeling. I am working on getting used to the feeling of dropping into the wave. At first it feels like a bad thing, but if I hold on it's amazing!
Catching the wave is still hit or miss. The theory of wave selection, timing and positioning is easier that the reality of it. It's going to take practice. Waves are dynamic, so each one is different. it takes a long time to build the reflexes and memory to properly approach each wave, so each wave caught feels like such a victory!
I got another, smaller wave, didn't feel that huge drop, but DID angle a little and get a bit of a ride down the line!
Things to work on: Look up and where I want to go. Make sure I'm not using knees on the pop-up.
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