Had a fantastic morning session! The waves were great and the water was warm. Caught a green wave and rode it! Had some good white water waves, finishing with control. When I decided on one last wave- what a wave it was! Caught a green wave, rode it, and finished with control. YEEEW!
Time surfed: 50 min
Total time to date: 8 hours 13 min
It was a good month! I feel like I did do what I set out to.
Between August 9 and August 31 I got out 12 times. Not too bad. I did increase my time out in the water. August 10 my session was 28 minutes. August 27 it was 43!
I feel my paddling and turning have improved.
I've caught a few green waves-just didn't stay on them ;)
I am consistently catching and riding whitewater.
I have maintained my on land healthy lifestyle, and I 100% stayed stoked!
September goals:
-get in the water EVERY day.
-work on controlled finishes to my whitewater waves.
-paddle out back on small days...it is hurricane season, after all!
Such a good night! The Franklin swell was big, powerful, and so well formed. It felt more manageable, but I still stayed on the inside. I got a bunch of whitewater waves- I was too focused to maintain a steady count. A few good finshes; a few not so much. But, it was my first time really surfing hurricane swell! SO fun!
Time surfed: 40 min
total time to date: 7 hours 4 min
This was the first day we really got hurricane swell. it was big and powerful- so I stayed on the inside. I caught one wave and got sandbanked, so I decided to call it a day. Discretion is the better side of valor!
Time surfed: 16 min
Total time to date: 6 hours 24 min
Another morning of big (by my standards) powerful surf. Good to be back at my home break. Lots of surfers out, but after the day before in NH, I felt okay about getting out there. I stayed in the whitewater and got 3 or 4 good waves- I lost track. It was a good day- a lot of the surfers on the outside were hooting. I cheered on a beginner myself, and even chatted with a few surfers on the beach after my session. I really felt like a surfer!
Time surfed: 43 min
total time to date: 6 hours 8 min
Saturday morning went to a meetup of More Women+ Surf and Lavender Lineup. It was really cool surfing with other folx of all abilities. Went to a new beach for it. The waves were big and powerful, and it was CROWDED! I felt more nervous about the crowds than the waves!
I got a lesson in turtle rolling, and paddled out to the back. There were way to many people out there though, so I went back to the whitewater. Took a break.
When I went back for session 2, caught and rode two whitewater waves, and had controlled finishes on both!
I got brave and went out the back. Paddled for a big wave- and wiped out spectacularly. But, sometimes that's a good learning experience.
Overall, it was a good experience- but I didn't love the break. Parking was a nightmare- but I did learn that I can carry my board at least half a mile down the road! It was crowded, and the vibe was not as mellow as at my home break. When the tide went out, some big boulders started to get uncovered- got a bit of a scrape from one of them- my first case of "reef rash" on my toe. it was awesome though to be with a group of cool surfers though!
I did not set my timer- but I'm gonna call it 1 hour 15 min. I was beat by the end of the day!
Time surfered: 1 hour 15 min
Total time to date: 5 hours 25 min
