WHAT A DAY!
Long Sands was big and crowded, so went to Harbor which is not traditionally a surf spot. There was a shortboarder out, so I figured why not.
I was able to paddle out the back quite easily. Watched a few waves go by...as they broke inside me I could see from the back how big they were. When my wave came, I decided to go for it. I paddled into it and that thing was HUGE! Took the drop prone, then flew down the line, also prone. It felt so big and so fast, but I stayed on and rode it! Even if I didn't stand, staying on was such an accomplishment.
After that exciting, scary, and exhilarating ride, I stayed on the inside. Got one good whitewater wave, but the waves were breaking pretty shallow and it seems not the safest thing to be riding in the shorebreak, so called it a day.
Checked Surfline after- that wave had to have been 6 foot- twice my normal range! I also was able to see some of my rides on the hotel cam. My paddle out was good. I really zipped out there. MY big wave wasn't really on camera, but my little one was. I did not look as awkward as I thought I would.
All in all, a great day for confidence!
Time surfed: 16 min
Total time to date: 14 hours 10 min
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