Sunday, February 21, 2021

...and refresh

I obviously did not go boogie boarding every weekend last year, or any weekend last year. Public transit became a big no for me. I was back to the same old problem: no ride to ride the waves.
It was an odd year. I started working from home in March. It was a gift. My dog was getting old and I loved being home with him all day, every day. 
Then, in December, my beloved dog died. Four days later, one of my two cats followed him. It was truly the most heartbroken I have ever been.
I healed and am healing by taking care of myself. I started working out consistently again, and have been going a little longer every week. I stopped getting takeout. I started buying flowers. 
Then, last month, my roommate, best friend, and chauffeur got a car! 
Because of my lapses in fitness, and the quarantine 15, I no longer fit into my wetsuit. I had been planning on getting back in the water when the wetsuit fit again, or it was warm enough to go without, whichever happened first.
Yesterday morning we took coffee to the beach for a sunrise walk. That's all it took. I don't think I can wait. I ordered a new wetsuit yesterday. With free shipping, it should be here by Friday, March 5. I plan to get in the water on March 6!

Recap

Well, the past four years just flew by, didn't they?

2017: I never did start taking my board out every weekend. Without a car, any trip to the beach would require a zipcar. I did surf nights again that summer, but didn't become the regular (goofy) surfer I wanted to be.

2018 and 2019 I got one week of surfing each year, thanks to a family rental in Maine. It was not enough.
I also let my fitness slip a bit. It was easy to lose my motivation when there was no surf in sight.

  I came up with a plan though. I got a boogie board. My plan for the following year was to go to the beaches that I could get to on the T. While it wouldn't be a longboard, boogie boarding would help my timing and wind knowledge. 
And then 2020 happened. 

Monday, March 13, 2017

Book Review: Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing

"Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing" by Tony Butt.
Start reading it for free: http://a.co/dCeLX2x

This book is amazing.  I have such a better understanding of how storm systems create waves.  You don't need to be a surfer to appreciate this book.   Anyone who has an interest in how the ocean and weather works would be fascinated by this!

Thursday, March 9, 2017

Book Review: Guide to Sustainable Surfing

"Guide to Sustainable Surfing" by Tony Butt.
This is an excellent book for anyone who wants to maintain the oceans. It explains in depth how our choices of lifestyle, materials,  and consumption specifically impact the environment for better or for worse. This book had a strong impact on me, and has inspired me to make changes to ensure that I still have an ocean to play in.
Start reading it for free: http://a.co/9PAvwx3

Thursday, March 2, 2017

Book Review: Surfari and 50,000 Shades of Blue

"Surfari" by Tim Baker. Surfari follows Tim Baker and his family on a trip around the coast of Australia, searching for waves. Baker is a great surf writer and this was a good read. The only thing that made me sad was the tension between the desire to surf and family obligations.
Start reading it for free: http://a.co/2LLxnCJ

50,000 Shades of Blue is something if a companion piece to Surfari.  It describes in greater depth  some of the most special spots visited.  Read it after Surfari!

Book Review: Grab Your Wave

"Grab Your Wave: How to Start Surfing" by Jess Clark.

Despite the ubiquitous bikini butt shot on the cover, this was actually a pretty solid book. It actually helped me to get over some of my kook nerves!

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/ePsbJtN

Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Book Review: The Wave

"The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean" by Susan Casey.

This is a fascinating,  exciting book by a fantastic writer. It explores giant waves, from the perspective of sailors and shippers, scientists and underwriters, and most of all, surfers. A good amount of the book focuses on Jaws, with an insider view from none other than Laird Hamilton. Definitely a recommended read!

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/hdRIR1A