Serious Fun

It seems strange to say that I want to get serious about surfing, when it is for fun. Perhaps it's more accurate to say I want to commit to surfing this year. Surfing is a skill, a sport, and an art that I want to, if not master, at least become proficient at. With that in mind, I'm setting some goals for the year.

-The biggest goal is to stop worrying about what the other surfers in the water think of me. As long as I follow surf etiquette and stay out of their way, nothing else matters.

-Get in the water every day I can. Even if there isn't good surf, getting out will help me improve my skills.

-Have fun and enjoy the process. Phil Edwards was the first to say that the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun, so this will be my benchmark for being the best surfer I can be.

-improve my pop-up.

-on land, work on getting fitter and stronger. 

-improve my wave reading skills

I plan to set goals for each surf session, and log my surf sessions to track how I do!

...and refresh

I obviously did not go boogie boarding every weekend last year, or any weekend last year. Public transit became a big no for me. I was back to the same old problem: no ride to ride the waves.

It was an odd year. I started working from home in March. It was a gift. My dog was getting old and I loved being home with him all day, every day. 

Then, in December, my beloved dog died. Four days later, one of my two cats followed him. It was truly the most heartbroken I have ever been.

I healed and am healing by taking care of myself. I started working out consistently again, and have been going a little longer every week. I stopped getting takeout. I started buying flowers. 

Then, last month, my roommate, best friend, and chauffeur got a car! 

Because of my lapses in fitness, and the quarantine 15, I no longer fit into my wetsuit. I had been planning on getting back in the water when the wetsuit fit again, or it was warm enough to go without, whichever happened first.

Yesterday morning we took coffee to the beach for a sunrise walk. That's all it took. I don't think I can wait. I ordered a new wetsuit yesterday. With free shipping, it should be here by Friday, March 5. I plan to get in the water on March 6!

Recap

Well, the past four years just flew by, didn't they?

2017: I never did start taking my board out every weekend. Without a car, any trip to the beach would require a zipcar. I did surf nights again that summer, but didn't become the regular (goofy) surfer I wanted to be.

2018 and 2019 I got one week of surfing each year, thanks to a family rental in Maine. It was not enough.

I also let my fitness slip a bit. It was easy to lose my motivation when there was no surf in sight.

  I came up with a plan though. I got a boogie board. My plan for the following year was to go to the beaches that I could get to on the T. While it wouldn't be a longboard, boogie boarding would help my timing and wind knowledge. 

And then 2020 happened. 

Book Review: Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing

"Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing" by Tony Butt.

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/dCeLX2x

This book is amazing.  I have such a better understanding of how storm systems create waves.  You don't need to be a surfer to appreciate this book.   Anyone who has an interest in how the ocean and weather works would be fascinated by this!

Book Review: Guide to Sustainable Surfing

"Guide to Sustainable Surfing" by Tony Butt.

This is an excellent book for anyone who wants to maintain the oceans. It explains in depth how our choices of lifestyle, materials,  and consumption specifically impact the environment for better or for worse. This book had a strong impact on me, and has inspired me to make changes to ensure that I still have an ocean to play in.

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/9PAvwx3

Book Review: Surfari and 50,000 Shades of Blue

"Surfari" by Tim Baker. Surfari follows Tim Baker and his family on a trip around the coast of Australia, searching for waves. Baker is a great surf writer and this was a good read. The only thing that made me sad was the tension between the desire to surf and family obligations.

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/2LLxnCJ

50,000 Shades of Blue is something if a companion piece to Surfari.  It describes in greater depth  some of the most special spots visited.  Read it after Surfari!

Book Review: Grab Your Wave

"Grab Your Wave: How to Start Surfing" by Jess Clark.

Despite the ubiquitous bikini butt shot on the cover, this was actually a pretty solid book. It actually helped me to get over some of my kook nerves!

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/ePsbJtN