Felt really strong and balanced! Started practicing left turns- it will take practice, but I know I can do it. Straight waves felt good!
Got a video- actually caught a green reform and went a little down the line- then fell off with my turn.
Surfline has started listing wave energy. 49kj felt nice!
Time surfed: 25 min
Total time to date: 14 hours 46 min
Short and sweet!
The waves were big and fast, but I was able to paddle out to the back. Got one good whitewave. Played around a little with foot placement on a few others with mixed results!
Time surfed: 11 min
Total time to date: 14 hours 21 min
WHAT A DAY!
Long Sands was big and crowded, so went to Harbor which is not traditionally a surf spot. There was a shortboarder out, so I figured why not.
I was able to paddle out the back quite easily. Watched a few waves go by...as they broke inside me I could see from the back how big they were. When my wave came, I decided to go for it. I paddled into it and that thing was HUGE! Took the drop prone, then flew down the line, also prone. It felt so big and so fast, but I stayed on and rode it! Even if I didn't stand, staying on was such an accomplishment.
After that exciting, scary, and exhilarating ride, I stayed on the inside. Got one good whitewater wave, but the waves were breaking pretty shallow and it seems not the safest thing to be riding in the shorebreak, so called it a day.
Checked Surfline after- that wave had to have been 6 foot- twice my normal range! I also was able to see some of my rides on the hotel cam. My paddle out was good. I really zipped out there. MY big wave wasn't really on camera, but my little one was. I did not look as awkward as I thought I would.
All in all, a great day for confidence!
Time surfed: 16 min
Total time to date: 14 hours 10 min
Did not get out every day- broken car, hurricane swell, high winds and upset tum all kept me on land. Got out a total of 14 times. Not terrible.
The good news- I'm doing much better at my finishes on whitewater waves- and my paddling is strong.
October Goals:
-get out as often as I can. This is pretty much my last month of post work surf until spring. Darn those early sunsets.
-continue my control on whitewater. Maybe time to start practicing turns?
-On smaller days work on green waves and getting used to the feeling of the drop!
-Yoga every morning!
Got 3 good white water waves, ended really nicely.
Took the drop on a green wave, wiped out, but could tell that I would have made it if I had weighted my front foot more.
time surfed: 33 min
total time to date: 13 hours 54 min
A messy day of waves, but had good foot placement and control ending my ride!
Time surfed : 20 min
Total time to date: 13 hours 21 min
Waves were tiny, weak and fizzling out. Got one good wave with good control, one ok, then there was nothing left to ride!
Time surfed: 19 min
Total time to date: 13 hours 1 min
