Surf Sesh 8.21

 Back in the water after a few weeks off without wheels!  

Everytime I'm set up for a nice green wave, something happens.  This time a kid swam right in my way.  I ended up taking the wave on my belly- was able to turn right and set my rail, so a success none the less!

Did a few practice turtle rolls- it's time to really work on getting to the outside.

Last wave was nice- caught the broken wave, but turned right a bit and did some footwork.  Feel like I'm getting a sense of the rail.

Goals:

-practice turtle rolls

-practice green wave takeoffs

-practice turns and setting rail

Surf Sesh August 2

 Had a good strong paddle out, and seem to be getting a better feel for the green waves. 

I almost had the wave of the day, caught it and was about to pop up and take the drop when I saw a swimmer in my line, so I pulled back.  

Did some work on the inside- the waves were too shallow to ride, but got some nice setups on the reforms.

I had been going pretty hard all week, so my arms got tired and I could feel myself losing good paddling form, so I called it early.  

Surf Sesh August 1

 I was distracted by swimmers who kept getting close/in front of me, like curious dolphins.  Waves felt fast.  Had a few okay take-offs. 

Surf Sesh July 31

 It was like the wild west!  Big and choppy, short period , lost of side current.  Lots of students out.  I did get a nice little backhand turn.

A year ago I wouldn't have gone out in these conditions, so my strength and stamina, mentally and physically have improved!

Surf Sesh July 29

 It was a big messy day, couldn't make it out the back.  Spent my time in the whitewater, worked on neatening up my pop-ups.  Did a good job looking up, and started working on foot placement for turns.

Surf Sesh July 28 Not quite dawn patrol

 Such a perfect morning.  The waves were small- just the right size to practice catching green waves- and so clean.  It was a perfect glassy morning, and nobody but me and a few paddleboarders were out.  The waves snobs don't know what they are missing.  Had a good session practicing my green waves. 

Two waves really stood out.  On one, I had perfect positioning with the wave to catch it...but once I got to my feet my stance was all wrong.  

Another one though, everything felt like it went right. I was in good position for the wave, my stance felt good, I watched were I was going.  It also felt like maybe my pop-up is getting faster?

Things to work on:  wave selection and positioning, looking up.

Surf Sesh July 27

 I've not been keeping up with my blogging, but I am keeping up with the surfing!  I've stopped counting my times so much.  I feel that I have moved from Beginner beginner to Intermediate Beginner/progressor, so I think I've put my hours in!  I'm starting to work on green waves, now that I feel very confident in the white water.

July 27- Had a wave that felt epic!  In reality it was about 2 foot, but I picked it up and took the drop.  Felt like a huge drop going 100 miles and hour! What a feeling.  I am working on getting used to the feeling of dropping into the wave.  At first it feels like a bad thing, but if I hold on it's amazing!

Catching the wave is still hit or miss.  The theory of wave selection, timing and positioning is easier that the reality of it.  It's going to take practice.  Waves are dynamic, so each one is different.  it takes a long time to build the reflexes and memory to properly approach each wave, so each wave caught feels like such a victory!

I got another, smaller wave, didn't feel that huge drop, but DID angle a little and get a bit of a ride down the line!

 Things to work on:  Look up and where I want to go. Make sure I'm not using knees on the pop-up.