Another good day of hurricane swell! Waves were big, so I stayed in the whitewater on the inside.
At first I was having a hard time letting go of the work day, but the water did it's magic and I had a good session!
I've noticed my popups are getting....poppier? Faster and smoother anyway. Had some good finishes.
Time surfed: 44 min
total time to date: 9 hours 21 min
The waves were rough and fast- hurricane swell is real! But, I maintained good control of my board!
Time surfed: 24 min
total time to date: 8 hours 37 min
Had a fantastic morning session! The waves were great and the water was warm. Caught a green wave and rode it! Had some good white water waves, finishing with control. When I decided on one last wave- what a wave it was! Caught a green wave, rode it, and finished with control. YEEEW!
Time surfed: 50 min
Total time to date: 8 hours 13 min
Such a good night! The Franklin swell was big, powerful, and so well formed. It felt more manageable, but I still stayed on the inside. I got a bunch of whitewater waves- I was too focused to maintain a steady count. A few good finshes; a few not so much. But, it was my first time really surfing hurricane swell! SO fun!
Time surfed: 40 min
total time to date: 7 hours 4 min
This was the first day we really got hurricane swell. it was big and powerful- so I stayed on the inside. I caught one wave and got sandbanked, so I decided to call it a day. Discretion is the better side of valor!
Time surfed: 16 min
Total time to date: 6 hours 24 min
Another morning of big (by my standards) powerful surf. Good to be back at my home break. Lots of surfers out, but after the day before in NH, I felt okay about getting out there. I stayed in the whitewater and got 3 or 4 good waves- I lost track. It was a good day- a lot of the surfers on the outside were hooting. I cheered on a beginner myself, and even chatted with a few surfers on the beach after my session. I really felt like a surfer!
Time surfed: 43 min
total time to date: 6 hours 8 min
Saturday morning went to a meetup of More Women+ Surf and Lavender Lineup. It was really cool surfing with other folx of all abilities. Went to a new beach for it. The waves were big and powerful, and it was CROWDED! I felt more nervous about the crowds than the waves!
I got a lesson in turtle rolling, and paddled out to the back. There were way to many people out there though, so I went back to the whitewater. Took a break.
When I went back for session 2, caught and rode two whitewater waves, and had controlled finishes on both!
I got brave and went out the back. Paddled for a big wave- and wiped out spectacularly. But, sometimes that's a good learning experience.
Overall, it was a good experience- but I didn't love the break. Parking was a nightmare- but I did learn that I can carry my board at least half a mile down the road! It was crowded, and the vibe was not as mellow as at my home break. When the tide went out, some big boulders started to get uncovered- got a bit of a scrape from one of them- my first case of "reef rash" on my toe. it was awesome though to be with a group of cool surfers though!
I did not set my timer- but I'm gonna call it 1 hour 15 min. I was beat by the end of the day!
Time surfered: 1 hour 15 min
Total time to date: 5 hours 25 min
Had an AMAZING session! The waves were still small and choppy, but had more power to them. I for real caught a green wave, but my foot placement was wonky, and, TBH, I got a little scared by the feeling of dropping in.
But- the white waves were great, and also gave me some opportunity to feel the drop and get more comfortable with it. Had two legit, real, long wave rides in the whitewater. On the second one I even was able to do a little right turn-on my backhand! I feel like I really turned a corner last night- I feel I'm making significant progress!
Next step- work on more controlled finishes- my first wave was okay, but the second one with the turn ended, ahem, kookily.
time surfed: 40 min
total time to date: 4 hours 9 min
The waves were still small with choppy conditions, but less mushy. My paddling and board control felt really strong.
Working on my front foot position when standing up. At the end of the session I felt pretty dialed in! AS silly as it sounds in tiny little waves, I did feel like I had better commitment to the waves.
It's sometimes hard to maintain a wave count while out there- the focus is on mindfulness, not numbers, but I think I did 3 or 4 good ones!
Times surfed: 39 min
total time to date: 3 hours 29 min
The waves were tiny, choppy, and mushy. Stood up on 2 green waves, but was behind the wave so went nowhere!
Got a few "sort of waves," and one decent whitewater wave. Had one really clean pop-up but was off balance so.....WIPEOUT!
I found myself being a bit cautious in the shallow whitewater, didn't want to fall is the shallows. The lack of propulsion from the weak waves made it harder to stay up and riding.
Time surfed: 34 min
Total time to date: 2 hours 52 min
For various reasons I was out of the water for a whole week! It felt good to be back. The waves were tiny but clean. I stood on 2 green waves- but was behind the wave so got nowhere! I got up on 3 white water. I need to work more on angling my front foot the right way. I'm bringing it up and landing it pointing right at the nose!
Time surfed: 32 min
Total time to date: 2 hours 16 min
I was so excited to get out in the water Monday night that I forget to set my timer until I had been out the back for a while.
The waves were teeny tiny and weak. I caught two green waves and even stood for a moment! Caught two good whitewater waves.
Time surfed: 30 minutes
Total time to date: 1 hour 44 min
I had every intention of logging conditions, swell direction, etc...but all I will say is:
I fully caught and rode a whitewater wave! Totally stoked!
Time: 28 min
