Friday, August 25, 2023

Surf Sesh August 24, 2023

 Had an AMAZING session!  The waves were still small and choppy, but had more power to them.  I for real caught a green wave, but my foot placement was wonky, and, TBH, I got a little scared by the feeling of dropping in.  

But- the white waves were great, and also gave me some opportunity to feel the drop and get more comfortable with it. Had two legit, real, long wave rides in the whitewater. On the second one I even was able to do a little right turn-on my backhand!  I feel like I really turned a corner last night- I feel I'm making significant progress!

Next step- work on more controlled finishes- my first wave was okay, but the second one with the turn ended, ahem, kookily.


time surfed: 40 min


total time to date: 4 hours 9 min




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