Monday, August 28, 2023

Surf Sesh August 26, 2023

 Saturday morning went to a meetup of More Women+ Surf and Lavender Lineup.  It was really cool surfing with other folx of all abilities.  Went to a new beach for it.  The waves were big and powerful, and it was CROWDED!  I felt more nervous about the crowds than the waves!

I got a lesson in turtle rolling, and paddled out to the back.  There were way to many people out there though, so I went back to the whitewater. Took a break.

When I went back for session 2, caught and rode two whitewater waves, and had controlled finishes on both!

I got brave and went out the back.  Paddled for a big wave- and wiped out spectacularly.  But, sometimes that's a good learning experience.  

Overall, it was a good experience- but I didn't love the break.  Parking was a nightmare- but I did learn that I can carry my board at least half a mile down the road!  It was crowded, and the vibe was not as mellow as at my home break.  When the tide went out, some big boulders started to get uncovered- got a bit of a scrape from one of them- my first case of "reef rash" on my toe.  it was awesome though to be with a group of cool surfers though!


I did not set my timer- but I'm gonna call it 1 hour 15 min.  I was beat by the end of the day!

Time surfered: 1 hour 15 min

Total time to date: 5 hours 25 min



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