Wingnut's Complete Surfing

"Wingnut's Complete Surfing" by Scott Bannerot, Robert Weaver.

It's been said, and it's true. You cannot learn surfing from a book. You, however, learn about surfing from a book.  This is the best of the many how to surf books I've read.  I am a big fan of Wingnut anyway. He's a great freesurfer and an unabashed longboarder. Most books assume that the surfer's goal is to eventually to a shortboard, but this book really embraces the beauty and grace of the longboard. I feel like this book will help me to be a better longboarder.

The differences between a professionally written book like this one and an amateur self published one are evident. Well written,  with a conversational tone, fun stories and informative photos, this book is highly recommended to any would be longboarder!

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/3xA5vIp

Book Review: Adult Beginner Guide: How to Surf

"Adult Beginner Guide | How To Surf" by Chris Anderson.

Some solid tips in this book, but not my first recommendation. There are better learn to surf books out there. It does have some good instruction on the pop up.

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/4aIIQdd

Book Review: Easy Surfing Fitness

"Easy Surfing Fitness: Become Fit, Lean and Strong in Just 30 Days" by Troy Adashun.

Basically the same book as Body Like a Surf Pro. BAIL!

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/i4l86ir

Book Review: Body like a Surf Pro

"Body Like a Surf Pro: Get Fit, Lose Fat and Catch More Waves Than Ever Before" by Troy Adashun.

Some of the concepts in this book are solid: eat clean, build core and upper body strength, focus on endurance and not bulk. However, some of the nutritional advice veers into junk science territory, and the advice doesn't really seem enough for a full book. BAIL on this one!

Start reading it for free: http://a.co/aU3z2tA

Where I am now....

My plan for the winter was to continue building my upper body and core strength, and be ready to hit the waves at every opportunity.  On cyber Monday, I bought myself a 3/2 fullsuit.  No more rentals!  

I could not wait until women's surf night started up again. And then, the day I found out the exact date, I got home and found I had won an Amazon gift card.  I decided to do something impulsive with it.  I bought a board. I am now the proud owner of a 9 foot! 
It's not fancy and not custom, but it's my first board.  I spent all my birthday money (thanks mom, dad, auntie and gran!) on what I needed to get in the water- wax, racks, hood, booties, gloves and a beautiful 5/4 wetsuit.  As soon as I got everything I needed, the waves went flat. I am ready to hit those cold winter waves!  I obsessively check the forecasts, praying for a Nor'easter to hit a day or two before the weekend.  It's gotta happen soon!

The Real Beginning....

I never did get back on a board the summer of 2015. But, at the end of the summer, my best friend and I looked at each other, and decided it was time to get in shape.  For real this time.  She became a Crossfitter (but that's her story).  I had as my motivation and my goal getting fit to surf.  And I did.


I started going to Women's Surf night at Surfari. I was nervous the first time I went.  I wasn't afraid of falling, or wiping out.  I was afraid of failing and being frustrated. That first night I didn't nail it, but I didn't fail either.  My on-shore pop up was strong.  Once in the water, I felt in control and confident paddling.  I wasn't nailing the pop up, but it wasn't because I wasn't string enough, it was more about timing and finesse.  My last wave of the night I got the pop up.  Staying up would be a story for another day. 

My A-ha moment

I knew that really getting the pop up would be like casting a Patronus...I would be able to do it once I knew I could do it.  The magic ended up happening in a SUP lesson.  Once I knew I could get up and stay up on the paddleboard, I knew I could get up and stay up on a surfboard. The next night, at surf night, I did it.  I had a few short rides, and then my last wave of the night I rode it all the way to shore.  It was a official.  I was a surfer.

Last summer was the best of my life.  Every week I felt more confident in the water and on the waves.  I went from the super gigantic beginner boards to the merely huge.  By the end of the season I could even manage a left turn. I'm a goofyfoot, so the right turn has eluded me so far.  That summer was just the beginning of my surfing life.

The Beginning

Three years ago, when I was 39, I set a goal for myself.  Send myself to a surf camp for my 40th summer. Surfing was something I had always been fascinated with, always dreamed of doing, but never thought I would do, but why not?

That summer I ended up winning a two day camp from Wahine Kai in Maine (sadly no longer in existence.) I was a year ahead of schedule! 

It was both wonderful and terrible.  Wonderful to be in the water on a board.  Terrible because I realized that I was not in shape for surfing at all.  I'm a good swimmer and am accustomed to the ocean, but even just paddling around I felt out of control.  And actually catch a wave?  Forget it.  I sort of popped up, once.  And promptly wiped out.

Yet somehow, it was an amazing, fun, exhilarating experience.  I knew I would be back....