I never did get back on a board the summer of 2015. But, at the end of the summer, my best friend and I looked at each other, and decided it was time to get in shape. For real this time. She became a Crossfitter (but that's her story). I had as my motivation and my goal getting fit to surf. And I did.
I started going to Women's Surf night at Surfari. I was nervous the first time I went. I wasn't afraid of falling, or wiping out. I was afraid of failing and being frustrated. That first night I didn't nail it, but I didn't fail either. My on-shore pop up was strong. Once in the water, I felt in control and confident paddling. I wasn't nailing the pop up, but it wasn't because I wasn't string enough, it was more about timing and finesse. My last wave of the night I got the pop up. Staying up would be a story for another day.
My A-ha moment
I knew that really getting the pop up would be like casting a Patronus...I would be able to do it once I knew I could do it. The magic ended up happening in a SUP lesson. Once I knew I could get up and stay up on the paddleboard, I knew I could get up and stay up on a surfboard. The next night, at surf night, I did it. I had a few short rides, and then my last wave of the night I rode it all the way to shore. It was a official. I was a surfer.
Last summer was the best of my life. Every week I felt more confident in the water and on the waves. I went from the super gigantic beginner boards to the merely huge. By the end of the season I could even manage a left turn. I'm a goofyfoot, so the right turn has eluded me so far. That summer was just the beginning of my surfing life.