Wednesday, February 15, 2017

The Real Beginning....

I never did get back on a board the summer of 2015. But, at the end of the summer, my best friend and I looked at each other, and decided it was time to get in shape.  For real this time.  She became a Crossfitter (but that's her story).  I had as my motivation and my goal getting fit to surf.  And I did.

I started going to Women's Surf night at Surfari. I was nervous the first time I went.  I wasn't afraid of falling, or wiping out.  I was afraid of failing and being frustrated. That first night I didn't nail it, but I didn't fail either.  My on-shore pop up was strong.  Once in the water, I felt in control and confident paddling.  I wasn't nailing the pop up, but it wasn't because I wasn't string enough, it was more about timing and finesse.  My last wave of the night I got the pop up.  Staying up would be a story for another day. 

My A-ha moment

I knew that really getting the pop up would be like casting a Patronus...I would be able to do it once I knew I could do it.  The magic ended up happening in a SUP lesson.  Once I knew I could get up and stay up on the paddleboard, I knew I could get up and stay up on a surfboard. The next night, at surf night, I did it.  I had a few short rides, and then my last wave of the night I rode it all the way to shore.  It was a official.  I was a surfer.

Last summer was the best of my life.  Every week I felt more confident in the water and on the waves.  I went from the super gigantic beginner boards to the merely huge.  By the end of the season I could even manage a left turn. I'm a goofyfoot, so the right turn has eluded me so far.  That summer was just the beginning of my surfing life.

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