Wednesday, February 15, 2017

The Beginning

Three years ago, when I was 39, I set a goal for myself.  Send myself to a surf camp for my 40th summer. Surfing was something I had always been fascinated with, always dreamed of doing, but never thought I would do, but why not?

That summer I ended up winning a two day camp from Wahine Kai in Maine (sadly no longer in existence.) I was a year ahead of schedule! 

It was both wonderful and terrible.  Wonderful to be in the water on a board.  Terrible because I realized that I was not in shape for surfing at all.  I'm a good swimmer and am accustomed to the ocean, but even just paddling around I felt out of control.  And actually catch a wave?  Forget it.  I sort of popped up, once.  And promptly wiped out.

Yet somehow, it was an amazing, fun, exhilarating experience.  I knew I would be back....

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