Three years ago, when I was 39, I set a goal for myself. Send myself to a surf camp for my 40th summer. Surfing was something I had always been fascinated with, always dreamed of doing, but never thought I would do, but why not?
That summer I ended up winning a two day camp from Wahine Kai in Maine (sadly no longer in existence.) I was a year ahead of schedule!
It was both wonderful and terrible. Wonderful to be in the water on a board. Terrible because I realized that I was not in shape for surfing at all. I'm a good swimmer and am accustomed to the ocean, but even just paddling around I felt out of control. And actually catch a wave? Forget it. I sort of popped up, once. And promptly wiped out.
Yet somehow, it was an amazing, fun, exhilarating experience. I knew I would be back....
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