Sharing Stoke

 I had a great time in the water last Thursday, and I didn't even surf!  I spent some time volunteering with Equip for Living's Equip for Surfing event- providing adaptive surfing experiences.  

I was paired up with a surf instructor from the local shop, and we worked with participants who did not have mobility limitations.  It was such a great time helping people have fun in the ocean.  There is so much to be said for adaptive and therapeutic surfing- it can create new neural paths that can help with depression, anxiety, PTSD and addiction.  It's great exercise, but also an exercise in mindfulness. It releases endorphins and creates a sense of accomplishment. It exposes one to the beauty, joy, and benefits of the ocean, and it's just darn fun! 

I am looking for all the opportunities I can find to volunteer for programs like this, it was such a great time, and everyone had fun!

Surf Sesh August 14, 2023

 I was so excited to get out in the water Monday night that I forget to set my timer until I had been out the back for a while.

The waves were teeny tiny and weak.  I caught two green waves and even stood for a moment!  Caught two good whitewater waves.

Time surfed: 30 minutes

Total time to date: 1 hour 44 min

Surf Sesh August 12, 2023

Beautiful dawn patrol session. Waves were small, hardly any one was out. A little sore where I got banged up, but still a successful session. Caught one green wave. Didn't stand up all the way, but rode it drop knee. It's gonna take some time to get used to the drop.

Got three good white water waves! My back foot is doing a wonky thing during the stand up, leaning sideways. Need to work on getting that back foot square under myself. All in all though, a day of stoke!

Time surfed: 28 min

Surf time to date: 1 hour 14 min

Surf Sesh August 11, 3023

Waves were small. Did a bunch of paddling practice. Caught one little white water wave.  Was attempting a green wave and had a unique wipeout. I came down on my rail right under my left boob, driving it in my ribcage. For a minute there I thought I may have cracked a rib, and it reeeally hurt so I cut my session early. All is well though.  Ibuprofen and ice and it feels much better, not even a bruise!

Time surfed: 18 min

Total Surf time to date: 46 min

Surf Sesh August 10, 2023

 I had every intention of logging conditions, swell direction, etc...but all I will say is:

I fully caught and rode a whitewater wave!  Totally stoked!

Time: 28 min

August Goals

-get out in the water as often as I can,  weather and tourists permitting.

-stay out a little longer each time 

-in the water:

  -paddle out the back

  -strengthen padding technique and turning 

  -work on catching green waves, try popping up but don't stress about it

  -practice pop ups on whitewater: fast to feet but slow to rise. Look up, not at my feet!

-on land:

  - AM exercises: pop ups, balance board, paddle cords

  -Exercise videos on non Surf evenings after work

  -but don't overtrain 

  -keep making healthy nutrition choices to support my surfing

  -bed time breathing/meditation/relaxation 

Most of all...

Stay Stoked!

Do You even Surf?

 My surfing journey for the past 9 years has been in fits and stops.  Things have changed though.  

I live at the beach now!  For the past year, I've been a fairly steady and competent bodyboarder.  Last fall I got a 7'6" Mick Fanning softtop.  I ditched the crappy old amazon board.  I struggled on the MF and didn't really get any wave time to speak of.  I hibernated all winter, pulled out the bodyboards in March, and tried the Mick again in June.  It was a STRUGGLE!

I finally decided to go back to square one, and start all over again.  I got a 9' Catch Surf Odysea log.  It's got tons of volume!  For that past month I've been getting out most days.  at first, my stamina was such that I could only do a few minutes at a time, but each session is a little longer.  I'm focusing on going slow, and really becoming a surfer.  My paddling is stronger, and I feel more confident on the board and in the ocean. I even feel less shy about being out around other surfers.  I feel like I'm doing pretty okay at reading the waves- the year of bodyboarding really helped.  Right now, I  feel like I can catch a wave, or stand up, but not both at the same time.  Total kook problem!

I plan to start blogging my surf sessions and tracking my goals so I can see myself progress.  I don't want to get too obsessed about it though, and make it more about the blog than what the blg is about.  In theory, it should take about 30 hours in the water to go from "Beginner Beginner" to "beginner."  I will spot myself a few hours and for tracking purposes start at 0:00 today!