My surfing journey for the past 9 years has been in fits and stops. Things have changed though.
I live at the beach now! For the past year, I've been a fairly steady and competent bodyboarder. Last fall I got a 7'6" Mick Fanning softtop. I ditched the crappy old amazon board. I struggled on the MF and didn't really get any wave time to speak of. I hibernated all winter, pulled out the bodyboards in March, and tried the Mick again in June. It was a STRUGGLE!
I finally decided to go back to square one, and start all over again. I got a 9' Catch Surf Odysea log. It's got tons of volume! For that past month I've been getting out most days. at first, my stamina was such that I could only do a few minutes at a time, but each session is a little longer. I'm focusing on going slow, and really becoming a surfer. My paddling is stronger, and I feel more confident on the board and in the ocean. I even feel less shy about being out around other surfers. I feel like I'm doing pretty okay at reading the waves- the year of bodyboarding really helped. Right now, I feel like I can catch a wave, or stand up, but not both at the same time. Total kook problem!
I plan to start blogging my surf sessions and tracking my goals so I can see myself progress. I don't want to get too obsessed about it though, and make it more about the blog than what the blg is about. In theory, it should take about 30 hours in the water to go from "Beginner Beginner" to "beginner." I will spot myself a few hours and for tracking purposes start at 0:00 today!
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